Part 1Quite a few years back my younger brother, Mark, and I were living in Singapore and teaching at a polytechnic institute there. We were given a generous amount of holidays and we took advantage.
One of our very first stops was Koh Panyang, Thailand. A small place just north of Koh Samui in the south. We were not really aware at the time but this place was famous for its Full Moon Parties at Had Rinn. We were staying at Thong Nai Pan Noi, a quiet little family beach north of Had Rinn.
Our beach was getting flooded with hippy-types and Euro-Ravers from all over the place. "You here for the Full Moon Party, Man?", everyone was asking. Well sure why not? We paid for passage to and from Had Rinn on one of the many boats that will take you there and started getting ready.
A guy from San Diego, California told us about a place just south at Thong Nai Pan Yai, where we could get some great tea that was made from island botanicals and fungi. The lady serving up the brew was a beautiful older Thai lady that ran a cafe just over the hill. Just what we needed for a memorable night we thought.
As the sun began to sink we made our way over the hill to the strange cafe. A hut really, like most of the buildings there. We were the only customers, and as we made our way inside we saw a life sized Santa stuffed and nailed the the celling. His eyes jammed with Christmas lights. His hands boney and menacing. It was dark now, and we didn't have much time to make our boat. We sat down and the woman drifted out from behind the counter.
I don't know what it was, perhaps a combination of the German dude, the boat's motor and the mushrooms, but I started to hear a voice in my head. A very rough American accent, stern but soothing in some way. "Gentlemen, 10 minutes!" I looked around wildly. I saw nothing accept a young Thai in an Iron Maiden T-Shirt staring out over the waves. "Remember your training, move off the boat and up the beach!" My heart was pounding wildly. "Landing craft are coming in behind you, get off the beach as soon as you can!"
Search lights were licking the clouds ahead, for the taste of enemy aircraft. Then all of the sudden BOOM! There were explosions ahead! What the fuck was going on! BOOM, BOOM, BOOM I could see brightly colored blue and green lights reflected off the clouds ahead. The search lights dancing madly. The boat's motor drilling into my ears. BOOM! and then the sound of machine gun fire, POP POP POP. The boat slapped the waves rhythmically BOOM BOOM BOOM POP POP POP!
I have to get out of here I thought, I'm going over the side. "Mark, I have to get out of here!" I said, almost choking on my words. "Dude we're almost there, that's the beach ahead." He said. People running wildly, explosions everywhere! The girl sitting in front of me had a flame thrower. I have to get away from her the minute we hit the beach, I thought. Some kraut bullet will tear through that pink tank-top of hers, and this whole boat will go up like a Christmas tree on the Fourth of July!
All the other landing craft were now coming into view. Thousands of them. Some skimming past us, others far out to sea, but making toward shore. We all jerked forward. The boat hit sand. I jumped up to get away from the blonde with the flame thrower and realized almost instantly, that was no flame thrower. It was a backpack shaped like a gorilla. Even more disturbing in some ways. The beach not crowed with wounded GIs, but with dancing people. Many of them urinating and vomiting into the sea. The same sea I was about to step into.
The water seemed like a thick jelly. Just lifting itself up and then slapping down on the wet sand. It looked so warm and inviting, I was tempted to lift it up like a blanket, crawl underneath and go to sleep warm and cozy. Luckily I had more sense than that. Mark and I went to bed that night in the shack we had rented on the beach. It was so dark that if your eyes were opened or closed, it made no difference. So I just stayed up a while looking around at my thoughts and went to bed.
Our beach was getting flooded with hippy-types and Euro-Ravers from all over the place. "You here for the Full Moon Party, Man?", everyone was asking. Well sure why not? We paid for passage to and from Had Rinn on one of the many boats that will take you there and started getting ready.
A guy from San Diego, California told us about a place just south at Thong Nai Pan Yai, where we could get some great tea that was made from island botanicals and fungi. The lady serving up the brew was a beautiful older Thai lady that ran a cafe just over the hill. Just what we needed for a memorable night we thought.
As the sun began to sink we made our way over the hill to the strange cafe. A hut really, like most of the buildings there. We were the only customers, and as we made our way inside we saw a life sized Santa stuffed and nailed the the celling. His eyes jammed with Christmas lights. His hands boney and menacing. It was dark now, and we didn't have much time to make our boat. We sat down and the woman drifted out from behind the counter.
She was beautiful, tall and slim. She had long black hair with some streaks of grey, and her face finely lined. "Yes?" was all she asked. "Ummm...two special teas, please." Mark said with a question mark stretched across his face and then a long pause. "Two special teas." she said and floated away. A moment later she placed them on the table and said "Be careful, it's strong tonight...with the full moon." We stared at her for a moment and then back to the tea. Lets just drink it down and get out of here, we thought. It was just like any black tea, but very sweet, and with a hint of blue cheese dressing. Getting it down was hard, plus it was hot.
Part 2
We split to make it to our boat. By the time we hit our beach, the potion was taking effect. My legs felt much longer than they should be, and I felt a little sick. Had we made a horrible mistake? Should I get in this boat? What was going to happen I thought, as the blood drained from my face. "Dude, it's cool, just get in and we will be at the party in no time." "Ok." was all I could say. My arms and legs were miles long. Getting into the boat was difficult but once seated I was fine. When the rest of the passengers got in we shoved off for Had Rinn.
The sound of the motor was deafening. All I could hear above it was the voice of a young German sitting behind me chatting up some American broad. "YAhhh iz diss your first Foool Mooon Pahti?" he was asking her. "My friend is DeeJaying tonight it's going to be unreeeeel." We were completely surrounded by darkness. The German's voice drifted out over the waves and disappeared. I was sweating a cold sweat, my knuckles white as I held onto the boat for dear life.
I don't know what it was, perhaps a combination of the German dude, the boat's motor and the mushrooms, but I started to hear a voice in my head. A very rough American accent, stern but soothing in some way. "Gentlemen, 10 minutes!" I looked around wildly. I saw nothing accept a young Thai in an Iron Maiden T-Shirt staring out over the waves. "Remember your training, move off the boat and up the beach!" My heart was pounding wildly. "Landing craft are coming in behind you, get off the beach as soon as you can!"
Search lights were licking the clouds ahead, for the taste of enemy aircraft. Then all of the sudden BOOM! There were explosions ahead! What the fuck was going on! BOOM, BOOM, BOOM I could see brightly colored blue and green lights reflected off the clouds ahead. The search lights dancing madly. The boat's motor drilling into my ears. BOOM! and then the sound of machine gun fire, POP POP POP. The boat slapped the waves rhythmically BOOM BOOM BOOM POP POP POP!
I have to get out of here I thought, I'm going over the side. "Mark, I have to get out of here!" I said, almost choking on my words. "Dude we're almost there, that's the beach ahead." He said. People running wildly, explosions everywhere! The girl sitting in front of me had a flame thrower. I have to get away from her the minute we hit the beach, I thought. Some kraut bullet will tear through that pink tank-top of hers, and this whole boat will go up like a Christmas tree on the Fourth of July!
All the other landing craft were now coming into view. Thousands of them. Some skimming past us, others far out to sea, but making toward shore. We all jerked forward. The boat hit sand. I jumped up to get away from the blonde with the flame thrower and realized almost instantly, that was no flame thrower. It was a backpack shaped like a gorilla. Even more disturbing in some ways. The beach not crowed with wounded GIs, but with dancing people. Many of them urinating and vomiting into the sea. The same sea I was about to step into.
The scene had totally changed. People dancing and drinking. Searchlights dancing with the music. Fireworks lit the sky, and the rattle of machine gun fire...simply the snare of the DJ's set. I had been lost in a dream. Mark told me later, I was just looking out over the water the whole ride, looking totally relaxed.
Part 3
The party actually, was a dud. Not all that fun and we went back to Thong Nai Pan early. Our beach was quiet. The families asleep the beach dark and empty. I took a walk alone for a few minutes. My feet hardly touching the ground, I bounced around like Charlie Duke at the Descartes Highlands (Why Charles Duke to describe a Moon walk and not Neil Armstrong? Two reasons: One, really good footage of the moon walks came from the later missions, Apollo 15, 16 and 17. And also images of John Young and Charles Duke were among the first images of the moon walks I had seen as a child.)
The party actually, was a dud. Not all that fun and we went back to Thong Nai Pan early. Our beach was quiet. The families asleep the beach dark and empty. I took a walk alone for a few minutes. My feet hardly touching the ground, I bounced around like Charlie Duke at the Descartes Highlands (Why Charles Duke to describe a Moon walk and not Neil Armstrong? Two reasons: One, really good footage of the moon walks came from the later missions, Apollo 15, 16 and 17. And also images of John Young and Charles Duke were among the first images of the moon walks I had seen as a child.)
The water seemed like a thick jelly. Just lifting itself up and then slapping down on the wet sand. It looked so warm and inviting, I was tempted to lift it up like a blanket, crawl underneath and go to sleep warm and cozy. Luckily I had more sense than that. Mark and I went to bed that night in the shack we had rented on the beach. It was so dark that if your eyes were opened or closed, it made no difference. So I just stayed up a while looking around at my thoughts and went to bed.
1 comment:
this was our shack on Koh Panyang, I bet it looked like yours, some euro folks recovering there, some just stayed.
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